Harvest Time!!! - 1st October

Well it is a beautiful day, sunny and 24 degrees, and the countryside is alive with tractors and harvesters.  Many of the grapes have now been harvested.  Cleverly, the machines that harvest them leave the rest of the plant in tact; so it can be tricky to see when driving along which have been done and which haven't.  I understand the vines themselves will be cut down in November.  The maize has also been harvested ready for animal feed during the winter.  The sunflowers however remain undisturbed.  They are wizened and bent and in desperate needs of walking sticks now!

My mower is still not repaired and the grass is growing longer and longer and longer.  Pretty soon the gites and the pool will vanish in a sea of green.  Perhaps I am exaggerating but that is how it feels.  I will hope for its return next week, as the rain forecast for the weekend will only exacerbate the situation.

Today, I started working at a local food and clothing bank.  It is just a couple of hours a fortnight but it is something I didn't get time to do in England and it was great to get involved.  In honesty, I am not being totally selfless.  It is wonderful to be able to help others, but I am also getting to know people in the local community and make use of my French at the same time.

Still painting.....

Season of mist & mellow fruitfulness - 25th September

I wake up in the morning and the mist blankets the countryside.  It reminds me of when we first arrived in April and I ended up having a late night drink with a local, not realising we were sat in heavy mist - until I bent down to pat my dog and realised he was soaking wet.  Clearly a glass of two too many there!

The trees are overburdened with fruit.  Our pear tree bows to the ground, so heavy is its crop.  The figs are exquisite eaten straight from the tree and I should probably be engaging in some conserving of them.

We picked the last of our golden courgettes and I made another batch of ratatouille.  Shopping in the supermarket - the vegetables on offer just lend themselves to this dish - beaufitul aubergines, peppers, courgettes and tomatoes.  I even evoked some long forgotten memories of visiting Greece this week after making a Moussaka because of the temptations of the beautiful purple aubergines.

I spent 5 hours yesterday moving around oak logs that my local wood man kindly came and cut up for me.  11 steres are now ready and waiting.  In case you are wondering a stere is one metre cubed.  I just kept telling myself it was good exercise and it was lovely to see them up stacked high when we finished........and relieved to know that we were at least partly prepared for the winter.

The gite roof has also been repaired after a storm ripped the tiles off.  Thankfully they have all been bedded back in and the side tiles glued down for extra security.  Hopefully the gites will get through the winter dry now.

It is a relief to know, after another visit to the water company, that they had no intentions of suing me!!  All is good I am again led to understand.  Apparently also my refugee status is in hand, but I will keep you posted.

Back in the Routine - 19th September

It has been several months since we had any strong routine to stick to. With our move over at Easter, and then extra Easter holidays here (bonus) and a light summer school schedule for the children - we have been quite spoilt really.  All good things and all that........

The school term is now well under way with 6 o clock starts.  It is noticeably much darker than the UK in the morning.  Of course, the upside is lighter evenings.  Don't feel too sorry for the children though.  They went wakeboarding in La Rochelle this week and have next Tuesday off. 

I have been busy talking to builders and swimming pool companies and we seem on target for the spring to get the pool renovated and some trees felled and the garden generally tidied a little.  I have, after months of deliberation, decided to try and grow a fence from Choisya Ternata Mexican Orange.  I have been wondering and playing with trying to take cuttings but I think it might be too late for this year - which is a problem as I wanted to get it planted so it was more established for next year.  If anyone has any advice it would be gratefully received.

I haven't managed to work on the painting at the front of the house this week as it has been a pretty soggy week.  We have even had the log fire going a couple of times - not because it was particularly cold - more damp.  It is lovely though. 

I had a bit of an accident with Dan the mower and is undercarriage has gone off for repairs!!!  I ran over something that I shouldn't have, and because it was already pretty weak and worn there was quite a bit of damage.  Good job the rain and sun aren't making the grass grow wildly!!!!!

11th September - French paperwork is a breeze (maybe)

Now the season is almost at an end, and our last guests leave next week (unless we get a late booking); so I have turned my attention back to maintenance.  This week I decided it was time to give our house a lick of paint - so I have been painting the front of the house and the barn and it is looking really pretty.  I think we probably need some new shutters but perhaps just an attempt at maintenance will have to do this year.  It is a shame as I was keen to paint them a new colour - to make the house feel more like mine.  I suppose like a dog scents its territory - in a not so charming analogy. 

The rest of my time has been spent trying to sort out the mess I seem to be tied up in with regard to paperwork.  Upon arriving in France I felt quite pleased that the phone/internet and electricity was all in hand.  They were expecting us.  We were ready to do the meter readings etc.  Great stuff.  Of course, having English helplines went a long way to dealing with this.  Anyhow, I was feeling ready to brave some of the other systems and utilities.  I decided to pay an accountant to sort out the business side and tax regime - in hindsight a fantastic idea.  I contacted the local Mairie for advice on the water bills.  Seemed ok.  I emailed said authority and sent the meter readings.  They came out and sent me bills.  All good.  I sent back my direct debit forms.  Job done.  Or not.  2 months later they came back.  I had made an error.  Fine - I corrected it and sent it back.  2 months later they came back.  I had made another error.  Fine.  I corrected it and sent it back.  2 weeks later they were threatening to switch off my water.  Okay, so an emergency trip with my neighbour and a handful of cash was made to the nearest office in Pons.  They laughed heartily and said I wouldn't be cut off.  Oh!  I sorted out the direct debit and offered to pay.  "Non" as they so often say.  Payment apparently would now be taken in February.  Oh!  This week 3 payments were taken from my account.  Oh!  Today I received a letter saying I am being taken to court for non payment.  Oh!  Another trip to Pons is booked for Monday with fluent neighbour again.  Good excuse for a coffee and a trip to the lawnmower shop as I have sheared off some partsOh!

Whilst all this was occurring I was also trying to transfer over my child benefit.  I had a letter from the UK explaining I no longer received them there.  In fact I had two.  Great stuff.  Again, there were several long and quite frankly confusing communications.  I sent my letters from the UK government.  I send our passports.  I sent our birth certificates.  I sent my business information.  I sent my accounts.  I send our birth certificates again.  I sent my accounts again.  Now, not only am I being sued by the French water authority - the government have decided I am a "stateless refugee".  Oh!

Perhaps French paperwork isn't such a breeze.

Yours

Stateless in France (you gotta laugh)

6th September - a social weekend

The gites have been full of life this weekend.  La Galerie was full of couples who stayed here as a centre point to meet up with their families.  They have laughed and talked and played all weekend and it has been such a joy to watch.  Our smaller gite has in a wonderful couple from England who are sorting out their new house down the road; so the place feels busy and alive.

Saturday was a busy day for me, working from 8.30 and then cleaning the house.  It got to 4pm and I suddenly decided enough was enough and popped my head into our neighbours to see if they fancied enjoying the sun with a glass of wine.  Luckily, one of our other neighbours arrived back from a visit to England just at that moment so they came along too.  An impromptu event that led to a hearty evening of laughter and more bottles of wine than I care to remember.  We were all feeling it this morning, but I wasn't able to wallow in my pain - I was cooking lunch to two families who were coming to visit.......

I was cooking lamb in garlic and rosemary......I was looking forward to it as I hadn't had a leg of lamb since leaving England.  Oh but where was all the meat I asked myself!   Once unpackaged it looked decidedly skinny.  I had to resort to throwing in a couple of shanks too.  Turned out I had bought a shoulder of lamb instead Silly me.  Small mellow drama over and it was worth the pain.  A delicious piece of lamb with a flavour rarely found.  A rich, deep taste of a naturally, slow reared lamb. 

Meal over (although I did feel a little disappointed in myself for not getting together a cheese board and better coffee for my French friends), the children headed for the pool.  Seeing them all having fun in the pool and kicking around a ball was an absolute joy.

What a fantastic weekend.

1st September - The wood has arrived

After a few weeks of concern over ordering the right type of wood, in the right quantity and at the right price it finally arrived yesterday.  This is how the conversation the previous week went (I will spare you the dodgy French):

"I would like 8 stere of wood please"
"That won't be enough"
"How much do you suggest I buy?"
"It depends how cold it is"
"Okay, so let's say it is a cold winter - how much?"
"It depends"
"On what?"
"If it snows"
"Okay, so it is cold and snows, how much would you buy?"
"It depends"
"On what?"
"Your fire"
Fireplaces established - "probably 10-12"  but then.....
"8 stere is too much - it won't fit under the roof"
"Okay, how much will fit"
"6 stere"
"Okay, bring that"

6 stere arrived.  8 stere would have fitted!!

Anyhow, it arrived.  Then I was quizzed about my chainsaw.  My  new chainsaw.  Much to my disappointment I was told my new chainsaw was no good for cutting the wood - too blunt.  I thought I would give a demonstration but the choke broke.  Oh goodness!!  

We then moved on to tomatoes.  My wood man told me he had lots of tomatoes - but I insisted we also had plenty.  Anyway, after a small beer we set off to see the tomatoes...see where this is going.......we were overwhelmed with kindness.  Four carrier bags of cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, chillies and carrots and avoiding another beer we arrived home 3 hours later smiling to ourselves that this is what life here is all about.

30th August - Thanks!

We have come to the end of the peak season - our first peak season at La Galerie & La Petite Grange.  Initially, we were frantically cleaning and painting and worrying about who might be coming to stay and what they might think of us and our gites.  Now it is a time for reflection......  The summer has been tremendous.  A whirlwind of events, of meeting and greeting new people and saying farewell to those that have travelled back home; of enjoying taking our friends out and about around our new home and sharing great food and wine with them.  We are lucky.  We have been lucky.  I couldn't have wished for more fantastic guests.  I would like to thank all of you for coming here and embracing our world and making our first year here so special.  Thank you.

29th August - The Citadel at Blaye

I was told before I arrived in Charente Maritime that Blaye was a fantastic place to visit.  I was slightly sceptical as the information was provided by a history teacher!  I should have known better as she was a history teacher who enjoyed wine and the finer things in life!

Blaye was wonderful.  A vivacious market with meat, vegetables, plants, clothes etc.  The market was nestled below the citadel which was easily accessed with free entry.  It is worth a stroll through this charming fortress which is littered with cafes and arts and craft shops offering unique gifts.  You can enjoy the vast splendid views over the estuary or you may be lucky enough to come across a street theatre or musical performers.

26th August - Day trip to Cognac

It was a beautiful sunny day today and a perfect opportunity to finally visit Cognac.  So off we set with our friends who are staying with us.

A quick trip via Pons we were there within 30 minutes.  Our first view was that of the Charente river - supposedly the most beautiful river in France.  I have to say it lived up to it's name.  A great place to wander and perhaps take a picnic.  There were kayaks there which you could hire for an hour or a day.  You could request to be dropped off downstream to kayak back to base.  Very reasonably priced too.

We parked up in the centre of the town and the ambience immediately takes you.  The café culture is vibrant and alive.  Our first instinct was to take a road train which lasted an hour.  It ambled along at a gentle pace allowing time to take in the Cognac houses, riverbank and shopping lanes.  We thoroughly recommend it.

Then, we were set back down in the square where it was time to peruse the vast array of menus.  It is a charming square and requires a leisurely lunch and offers a place where time is of no significance. 

20th August - Mellowing

After all the hype and speed and excitement that came along with the start of the summer season things are starting to feel a little more mellow.

The sunflowers are now nodding their heads and looking sleepy; the nights are cooling and the morning brings a heavy dew and low lying mist that is so beautiful when the suns slowly rises- now an hour later than we had seen just a few weeks previously.  However, the days are still long and able to reach into the low 30s on occasion.

We have just said "au revior" to some of our dearest friends who have been out to join us for the week.  What a wonderful week it was, fully of hasty chat to catch up and long lingering meals, laughter and pure joy at sitting together by the yachts or beneath the palm trees.  We even feasted on the vegetables the children grew - which they had given us as gifts in the form of packets of seeds - sweetcorn, golden courgettes etc.

14th August - Crouching Tiger, Hidden Kitten

I have been reflecting back on our first four months in Charente Maritime.  To be honest, it could be four years - I feel so far away from the life I left - the routine and constant time pressures.  I am not saying that everything here has been easy - far from it; but I have no regrets.  Problems and difficulties are a reality wherever you live but one thing that has changed other than the weather  (it has recently dawned on me) is my interaction with other people. To be honest I think perhaps I had lost faith a little in humanity. 

Here I get to see people at there best - the person without the routine, without the pressure of a deadline, without the 2 hour sit in a traffic jam.  Life here is altogether different in that respect.  There is time.......time to chat, to laugh, to think, to be.  It is similar for me too.  I am not constantly worrying about where I need to be next, the fact I have forgotten something or I am late, or what emails have come through that need urgent attention.  Now I mostly just laugh and do a Gaelic shrug. 

What I have really noticed is how truly lovely people are.  I think you can lose a sense of who you are with the constant pressure of work.......work harder, work longer, be in the right house, in the right school, get the kids extra tuition, go to this club and that club and aspire to do better in work, in life..........  Sorry if that seems cynical to some.  I have been watching these programs recently where people give up everything to live in remote areas of the world or on boats and whilst we haven't gone that far - I feel we have made a significant move towards it. 

It is so lovely to have my faith in people restored.  To have my faith in myself restored.  I see the person I was many years ago.  The kind person, the gregarious person and I like it.

6th August - Foret de la Coubre

Today we were in the mood for adventure so the children and I set off bright and early for Floret de la Coubre - part of the Coast Sauvage (Wild coast).  It was about an hours drive, we went past Royan and the zoo at La Palmyre  and as the traffic quietened the wildness of the area revealed itself.  An area of forest and beach with ample free parking (as appears to generally be the case) but beware as some parts of the beach don't have lifeguards.  This is where you tend to spot the surfers!  We parked up and headed towards the roar of the ocean.  It was a good 10-15 minute walk but very pleasant.

Wow the wild coast didn't disappoint.  Some of the back waves around 200m out must have been 12-15 feet and close to the shoreline the larger ones easily made 8-10 feet.  The area was heavily lifeguarded and there were strict perimeters in which you had to stay if you wanted to body board or simply jump the waves.  For those not wanting to venture in it was just as wonderful to sit and watch.

Whilst there were young children there I think it is really one for the teenagers or those of us wishing we still were.

4th August - Cows really do showjump!

We have a field next door to us that sometimes has the most beautiful herd of "Blondes".  Compared to our Friesian's they have on the whole been generally much  more placid (from my experience of being chased with my dog several times in the UK).  There was for many weeks the most enormous bull in the field with the cows and he seemed to delight in the little calves running around his feet.  I became a little more relaxed when they appeared to show no interest in my hairy dog.

Anyway, the other day the herd returned and I did think they seemed a little more vocal than before.  I set off walking my dog early one morning and felt a little skittish when they came up to the fence line to observe said hairy dog.  I told myself it wasn't a problem......they have always been just fine - but we did walk a little faster home I must confess.

A couple of hours later there was a wholly commotion between the farmer, his son, a helper and the cows.  There was clearly frustration on both sides and the Blondes were clearly not behaving as required.  Next thing I know all the farmers are in my garden herding back a very large Madame.  I never knew cows could showjump but over a 4 foot fence she went.  Wow.  Hilarious.  Later on I found out it was artificial bull time for some of them.  No wonder......

2nd August - St George de Didonne

Well the weather has certainly picked up again.  It is now back into the 30's and the skies are cloudless.  A good day to go to the beach........so we took the recommendation of one of our guests from last week and set off for St George de Didonne.

We weren't disappointed.  It nestles next to Royan, but whilst Royan is bustling and busy at this time of year - St George was really quiet in comparison.  It was easy to get parked as there is parking right along the shoreline and the beach is a soft, deep beautiful golden sand that just goes on and on.  Like so many coastlines around here there were the most wonderful architectural trees lining the roads.  The area has several eateries and shops for the children to buy bits and bobs and the centre of this small town is just a short walk away and worth a trip.

For those of you feeling more adventurous there are jetski's, kayaks and sailboats and in the distance I could see some fishing towers.  Having said that it is just on the mouth of the Gironde so perhaps one downside is the silty water.  It didn't seem to bother the tourists and showers were readily available but my children weren't so sure!

1st August - Two things..........

Two things I have never been very good at are saying goodbye and ironing!

So why would you buy a gite bearing this in mind I am sure you are thinking?  I hate to admit that even after knowing my guests for the briefest time and sometimes with the littlest of interaction it still makes me feel sad to say goodbye.  I have been pondering on it all day.  Why do I feel so sad?  I really don't know but perhaps this is a fantastic way to get over this.  The constant coming and going of people. I have to say with the new guests arriving my sadness once more turns to joy.  To see the faces of the children as they see the pool and the joy of watching them running around the lawns.  Even if I don't get over the sadness it will always be worth it to see the happiness.

As for the ironing - well what can I say.  Nothing! 

29th July - A new skill

Today started off rainy - it has unfortunately not been the hot sunny weather of previous weeks which does make me sad for my guests who are only here the week. 

Taking stock of the rain this morning I decided the plan to garden was out - so I set off to track down a tractor lawnmower shop to see if I could pick up a service kit.  My old mower that I inherited - whom I have named Dan after a young man I know who would love it - has been coughing and billowing like there is no tomorrow.  I have been feeling determined not to spend too much money on this rather essential bit of kit and therefore decided to have a go myself - how hard can it be to service a tractor mower (she says with no mechanical experience whatsoever!!!)

We found said place and bought the kit required for a reasonable 60 euros.  The air filter was a breeze (had seen a clip on youtube a few weeks ago).  Much to my amazement and a few of my neighbours tools and a lot of youtube watching I (I mean we cos the children helped) serviced Dan.  We changed the air filter, fuel filter, oil and filter and put in a new spark plug.  Dan is still not a Rolls Royce but at least his cough has gone and he purrrrs now like a.........well like an old tractor really.

Oh, and because I was feeling brave after that I then went and defused the champagne bottles at the bottom of the garden - so we now how more bottles for next year.

Proud day!

26th July - A Windy Day

Today, the weather has changed.  It is a lot cooler (but still in the mid 20's) with a few light showers and the wind is a little blowy.  Needless to say I stayed in doors most of today - I took a day off as far as a mum can!!  Having said that, I did venture out to put the pool to bed in the early evening and realised I had been missing out on something quite special.  So off I set with my faithful dog (except when he legged it into the gite and cleared up the spilt food under the table just to be helpful to our guests - he is so kind) for a wander.  The weather was truly beautiful.  Yes, the skies held heavy grey clouds but they seemed to make the scenery even more dramatic than usual.  The immaculately clipped vines seemed to stand to attention in the most impressive of displays and the tumbling countryside seemed to travel even further into the distance.  The wind was beautiful.  It was warm and joyous.  If I had been significantly younger I might have twirled down the road in that carefree fashion that children do.

25th July - Holiday Season

Holiday season is well and truly underway now.  We travelled down to Bordeaux the other day and there was a noticeable change in traffic.  One look at the number plates told us it was holiday makers on their way to what will hopefully be their dream vacations.

Our first French guests have just left and we thoroughly enjoyed their company.  My dog is definitely missing his new playmate.  It is great to understand the subtle differences in the French way of life.  Having been invited for an aperitif it was great because we exactly where we were.  A drink before we went home for dinner.  None of that awkward outstaying your welcome whilst everyone starves.  We were lucky to have been given a local bottle of aperitif which I was able to take along and enjoy with the family.

Our new guests arrived today and have taken advantage of renting out both gites for their family.  A great way to enjoy the space and have total privacy and more importantly a pool to yourself.  It is so lovely to see the children enjoying themselves - it is such a great place to give them some freedom.

I have literally been kicked out of the gites now - so no more painting until the winter.  It is a great opportunity for me to start tidying up my own garden - which has been neglected since I got here; and more importantly enjoy time with some of our valued friends who are coming to stay in the coming weeks.  It is going to be a great opportunity to start sight seeing again.

20th July - Lazy Hazy Days.......

The weather here continues to be sublime.  Although, I have to admit that Saturday was even too hot for me and it is the first time my dog has turned his nose up at going outside.  It has dropped back to the high 20's this week.  Summer is on full steam ahead.  The sunflowers all nod their heads as you pass and the grapes display an abundance of fruit now.  The sweet corn seem to whisper as you walk past when there is a gentle breeze.  It was exactly the time when I was expecting to spend my days lazing by the pool and dawdling along the beaches; but no, I am still painting.  It must be 3 months solid now!!!  La Petite Grange has had a good scrub and a lick of paint so it is lovely and fresh for our next visitors to arrive, or at least it will be by Saturday.

We are starting to meet some French families now.  A great advantage in having children.  We had our first invite to a French family for dinner and we ate with three generations.  Of course, the conversation was difficult but we all tried out best.  The atmosphere was relaxed and we felt that we ate like kings.  We were served steak and seasoned pork, turkey and red fish, prawns and squid......I could go on and on.  It was great fun - we cooked it ourselves on little stoves placed on the table.  It was such an enjoyable evening and I am building up the courage to invite a couple of families to us towards the end of the summer.

I was just outside the door this evening when I head the most almighty bang from the kitchen.  I was very worried as I thought something serious had happened.  I went in to find the children sat watching TV having not flinched.  "what bang they said".  Perhaps a beam had broken in the barn I thought - but no.  Or perhaps a problem on the roof - again no.  No problems upstairs.  But I knew I couldn't have imagined it - so belly curdling was the sound.  I went to the fridge - oh my goodness......another exploding bottle of the famous elderflower champagne.  It must have been in a thousand pieces and took us a good hour and a half to clean up the mess.  I carefully (and shaking from head to toe I must confess) lifted the rest of the bottles from the fridge and they are now sat on the naughty step at the bottom of the garden in a cardboard box covered by a towel.  I won't be visiting them until they have finished exploding!!

12th July - Talmont sur Gironde

We have a flock of swifts that live around the garden.  Each morning and evening they spend their time dive bombing the pool for insects and water.  Initially, when we used the pool in the evening they would hover in the distance until we were finished; but over time they have become more accustomed to us.  Last night some of them were actually brave enough to join us.  It was an amazing spectacle.  We lay on floats in the water so we were facing up and watched them glide and soar over our heads.  Five or six actually swooped down to the water and the close up view was incredible.  It was light watching a flock of shooting stars.

Today we treated ourselves to some time out.  On a couple of occasions people recommended we visit Talmont sur Gironde.  We drove past on one occasion but it didn't look much to see sp we past it by.  Today, I decided that  we must be missing out on something so we set off in that direction for lunch.  It is only a 15 minute drive so I decided nothing ventured and all that.  Gosh - now I know what the fuss is about.  It is actually listed as one of France's most beautiful villages.  Overlooking the estuary, its charming narrow streets, with whitewashed houses and blue shutters, are lined with the most incredible display of hollyhocks.   The views out across the water are wonderful.  Today there was also a brocante where you could pick up anything  from baskets to oysters.  We ambled around the shops and had a delightful lunch followed by a delicious ice cream. 

It was time to head home for a cup of tea and the Wimbledon final.